Haida Gwaii - exploring Graham Island

We went to pick up our camper van at the  van rental place in Charlotte and it wasn't there. The van rental place is Jeff's house. He said it would come soon. So we went to the park and watched the eagles and ravens duke it out for fish from the rocks. We called back. It turns out the camper van (a converted minivan) with home-made awning and deck chairs http://www.haidagwaiirv.com/vehicles-and-rates/ wasn't coming back til tomorrow. If we liked, we could stay in Jeff's basement. We accepted. In fact, we bought some salmon and cooked dinner and fed Jeff in his own kitchen. Stuff like that happens up here. Everything is a bit informal. To put it mildly. I love it.

The next day we drove along the shore, and through the reserve at Skidegate, looking at the totem poles on the way - to Misty Meadows campground. We then convinced the boys to walk five km down the beach to look at a quite spectacular shipwreck - finding shells, rocks, and crab shells along the way - and then cajoled them the five km back. I think it is the longest hike ever for both Sid and Lucky. On our way we meet Rain, a part Haida woman from Calgary and two German cyclists who are travelling from Alaska to Argentina who she has convinced to visit the this islands. They had been riding near Terrace BC and she had convinced them to come and meet her uncle, a carver nearby.

Little did we know we'd see her virtually every day of her trip. That she'd be super-lovely and interesting. Or that she was a cop.

We camped nearby and then headed up to Masset, via the Golden Spruce and an abandoned half dug out canoe in the woods near Port Clements. We found our campsite for the next few days at Agate Beach, a massive beach where we were virtually alone. The view was spectacular, the beaches from horizon to horizon and empty - and we could see to Alaska. But the wind was intense. The first night we basically nailed everything down - including the kids. Over the next few days we would swim in the ocean, climb nearby hills, and walk on the beach. We also went into Masset when it rained to see the local museum - mostly of the white folks of the region, and then to Old Masset to see the totem poles.

We rented surfboards one day and tried to surf. The waves were small, we were in shallow water with the kids - all in wetsuits. As I was trying to get moving  I looked over and spotted a seal bobbing in the nearby waves. It seemed to be having more success than I.

On our last day our sleeping bags were wet and we fled the beach  and headed to a bakery in a log cabin in the woods.
There sipping really good coffee we met Owen Luck - a pretty fascinating photographer -
http://www.library.yale.edu/beinecke/brbleduc/bios%2010-11/brblfellow_vis10_luck.html
Good conversations.

 Then we  looked for info on the blockades that had helped change the trajectory of Haida power on the islands at the logging museum in Port Clements and moving back to Charlotte.

On our last day on the islands we visited the Haida Cultural Centre in Skidegate. It made me realize how recent all this cultural reclamation has been - and how powerful. The centre was only built in the last ten years, and beside it are six new totem poles to represent local Haida communities. The centre hosts Haida language classes, canoe building, weaving, totem pole carving for the local communities - and those non Haida who would come to learn.  The galleries are excellent and tell a story of genocide, resistance and renewal. Every hour there are tours, classes or workshops.  You hear the story of the blockades, the fight to control the islands - the victory at Gwaii Hanaas, the park area  and the victory to be consulted on tree farm licensing. You hear about the loss of the language and the attempt to renew it. We learned at our Haida language tutorial that there is a new school with Haida oriented curriculum and Haida classes, tapes etc. Really friggin amazing.
At the centre we also met a fellow from Oakville who had gone on a kayak trip into the park. It cost $2100 and he says, at 40, he was the youngest participant. Interesting. This morning - we also met the other people who are making it into that area - wealthy American sport fishermen - emerging with numerous boxes of fish and flying back home between islands, ocean and mountains.

Well there you go. I have no easy summaries. We're back in Vancouver. I'll try to say something wise and witty in the next few days summarizing our cross country voyage - but right now I'm sleepy and tipsy and going to bed.
xo L